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Szczecin – the historic capital of the West Pomerania region is situated at the start of the estuary of the River Oder (Odra), some 65 km from the Baltic Sea. Many centuries ago this region was the ducal territory of the aristocratic Griffin dynasty and the place of stormy history which saw the numerous assimilations of Szczecin as part of the territory of other countries including Sweden, Prussia and Poland. For centuries this was a region of the crossroads from Western to Eastern Europe and from Scandinavia to Southern Europe. Today, Szczecin is not only the capital city of the West Pomeranian Province but also a major city of the whole Pomerania Euro-Region. It has become the centre of trade and industry, education and culture and an area with a developing tourist industry. Although the old image of the city has greatly changed it still enchants visitors with its charming points of interest and secession architecture which in itself is an invitation to explore and see more of the city. 

FOLLOW THE RED LINE

As you walk through the city you may notice a broken red line running along the pavement of which the meaning is a mystery to many people. This is, in fact, a specially marked tourist route that leads visitors along the most important attractions in Szczecin. During a walk that may last many hours, tourists can visit the Old Market and see its most spectacular sights. The route starts near the main railway station (Dworzec Glowny PKP) and leads visitors around forty two of the cities landmarks. The many people visiting here will, without doubt, appreciate the assistance of this special route map which is sign-posted in Polish, English and German. A must-see tourist destination is the Dukes of Pomerania Castle (Zamek Ksiazat Pomorskich) which was once the heart of the aristocratic Pomeranian Griffin dynasty. It was extensively damaged during Allied air raids in 1944 but rebuilt after the war in the original Renaissance style. The castle has five wings, two courtyards and four prominent towers soaring above the landscape of the city centre. It is worthwhile stopping a moment in the largest courtyard, beneath the astrological clock that has been "counting time" since 1693. Aficionados of older architecture styles will be delighted to see the unique city gates dating back from the 18th century which are richly ornamented and resembling triumphal arches. Another location worth visiting is St. Jacob's Cathedral. This building dates back to the 12th century and has been rebuilt several times. Its interiors are truly impressive. Features include Gothic triptychs, Baroque tombs, a baptismal font and numerous epitaphs. The reliquary can be found beneath the main altar and holds the relics of St. Otton. On the eastern wall is the largest stained glass window in Western Pomerania (87m²), depicting the Holy Mother of the Church with the Infant Jesus, the Holy Spirit and other figures that have had some part in the history of the church in the Szczecin region. Mounted at the front of the Cathedral, visitors can admire "The Great Bell" (Dzwon Wielki) which dates back to1682. A house on the corner of Farna Street (Ul Farna) and Mariacki Square (pl. Mariackiego) is of particular interest as it is here, on 2nd May 1729, Sophie Augusta Frederica von Anhalt-Zerbst, the future Tsarina of Russia, Catherine II, was born.

HARBOUR CITY

The city of Szczecin, with its bridges, cranes and dockyards stretches along the banks of the Oder River (Odra). The seaport of Szczecin-Swinoujscie as well as the shipyard, the fourth largest in Europe, gives Szczecin its unique maritime character. The distinctive embankment, the so called Chrobry's Wall (Waly Chrobrego) is the emblem of the capital of West Pomerania. The Wall is a 500 metre long terrace which was constructed at the instigation of Hermann Haken, who was the mayor of Szczecin at the beginning of 20th century. Chrobry's Wall can be found in a very special location as it is close to the impressive architecture of the public utility buildings, the Maritime University, the National Museum and the Provincial Office. There is also a splendid view from here stretching over the River Oder, its estuary and port canals, islands and the harbour. It will come as no surprise that this is one of the most popular places for promenades for the citizens of Szczecin and it is also the venue of the Days of the Sea summer festival. At the base of Chrobry's Wall is one of the most beautiful squares in Szczecin – Defenders of Westerplatte Square (Plac Obroncow Westerplatte) which has a huge fountain that is incorporated in the stone of the Chrobry's Wall itself. On either side of the fountain, in a niche above a mascaron, there is a statue. On the left side there is a statue of Jan from Kolno (with an anchor), one of the alleged legendary discoverers of America and on the right a statue of Jan Wyszak (holding a ship's wheel), a pirate from Szczecin who was dramatically rescued from Danish captivity. From here, the Marine Station (Dworzec Morski) is just a short distance away where visitors are recommended to take a one-hour boat trip around the harbour and the entrance to the shipyard where, in their gantries, "marine giants" are under construction.

 

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AN ECHO OF PARIS ON THE ODER

When entering Grunwald Square (Plac Grunwaldzki), the largest square in Szczecin, it can be seen that it was built in the shape of a star, like l'Etiolle in Paris, the round meeting point of eight radial streets. The Parisian architect, Haussmann, is to credited with the design of these star-like meetings points joining squares and roads in Paris. A replica of the Parisian model, but on a smaller scale, of a wide, plant and tree-lined avenue where contemporary art is displayed, lead from Grunwald Square to the Provincial Office. Visitors will not find the Eiffel Tower in Szczecin but we recommend a cup of coffee in "Café 22", a mere 80 metre above the ground, for spectacular views of the Old and New Town. 

OMNIPRESENT GREENERY

Szczecin is a real paradise for those fond of walking. As much as 20% of the area of the city is made up of parks and greenery. Kasprowicz Park is without doubt the most popular location in the city. It was established in the 19th century and covers 49 hectares of undulating hills. Its diverse and exotic collections of plants attract visitors throughout the year. Visitors enjoy the shady, quiet paths as well as the sunny clearings, the picturesque Rusalka Lake, lively children's playgrounds, the café and an open air theatre. The Polish Community Work Monument (Pomnik Czynu Polakow) is definitely worth a look. It has three bronze eagles rising from a nest which symbolises three generations of Polish citizens who helped with the reconstruction Szczecin after the war. Jasne Blonia, another bright, verdant area of land which spreads to the north of the City Hall is another place that visitors should not miss. This park was designed with rows of trees along its sides with a vast lawn containing flower beds in the middle. The more than two hundred trees, which are on the Natural Monuments list, give Jasne Blonia its unique charm. In the centre of the park there is a monument to John Paul II, commemorating his visit in 1987. A visit to the Central Cemetery, one of the largest burial grounds in Europe covering more than 160 hectares, is also highly recommended. On entering the grounds through the neo-romantic main gate from the street with a very meaningful name, "Towards the Sun" (Ku Sloncu) visitors will quickly notice that the cemetery resembles a park with many species of trees and shrubs, often exotic ones, such as the Serbian spruce, the Korean fir and the maidenhair tree. The Emerald Lake (Jezioro Szmaragdowe) which is outside the city and right in the heart of the Bukowa Forest (Puszcza Bukowa) captivates visitors with its magical atmosphere. The lakes name is derived from the colour of the water which fills the former chalk quarry. Nearby, from the viewing terrace there is a panoramic view of the lower Oder and the city of Szczecin.

"CULTURAL" CASTLE

Once the historic seat of the aristocratic Pomerania Griffin dynasty, the castle was rebuilt after the destruction of the war and now houses The Pomeranian Dukes' Castle Institute which is one of the most important cultural centres in West Pomerania. Chamber music and classical music concerts as well as choir recitals, among them, the Candlelit Chamber Music Concerts and the Promenade Concerts in the summertime are held in the small courtyard with the Staged Concerts held in the larger courtyard. Among the performers that have appeared here are ensembles and soloists from all over the world including Goran Bregovic, Vadim Brodsky, Jose Carreras, Jean-Marc Fessard, Barbara Hendricks, Konstanty Andrzej Kulka, Chuck Mangione, Valerij Oistrach, Pat Metheny and Al di Meola). The castle also houses art galleries and every year some forty exhibitions of photography, history and art are held here

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